Hair Types Explained: From 1A to 4C (Full Chart)

Walk into any salon, scroll through any beauty forum, or flip through a hair-care magazine and you will encounter a string of numbers and letters: 2C, 3B, 4A. These shorthand codes are not random — they belong to a classification system that has shaped how the beauty industry talks about hair for more than three decades. Understanding what those codes mean is the first step toward healthier, more manageable hair, regardless of your natural texture.

In this guide we break down every category in the Andre Walker typing system, explain how each type behaves, and share practical care advice so you can build a routine that suits your actual hair — not a generic one-size-fits-all approach. Whether you are working with pin-straight strands or tight coils, knowing your type puts you in control.

What Are Hair Types?

Hair types are a way of categorizing the natural shape and curl pattern of a strand of hair. The most widely used framework is the Andre Walker Hair Typing System, developed by celebrity hairstylist Andre Walker — best known for his long collaboration with Oprah Winfrey. Walker introduced four numbered categories (1 through 4) and three lettered subcategories (A, B, and C) within each number, giving a total of twelve distinct classifications.

The system is built around one central variable: the natural curl pattern, specifically the diameter and tightness of the curl or wave. A "1A" designation means very straight hair with no discernible curve, while "4C" describes the most tightly coiled texture with minimal visible curl definition. Everything else falls somewhere on the spectrum in between.

It is worth noting upfront that most people do not have a single, uniform hair type across their entire head. It is entirely normal to have 3A coils at the crown and 2C waves at the nape. The goal of typing is not to put hair in a rigid box but to give you a useful reference point when selecting products, styling techniques, and treatments.

Type 1: Straight (1A, 1B, 1C)

Type 1 hair grows straight from the follicle with no natural wave, curl, or coil. Because the strand lies flat, the sebum produced by the scalp travels down the shaft easily, which tends to make straight hair shinier and softer than other types — but also more prone to looking oily at the roots.

1A is the finest and most delicate straight hair. Strands are very thin with virtually no volume and can go limp quickly. Over-conditioning is a common pitfall because even lightweight products can weigh 1A hair down noticeably.

1B is the most common straight type. Strands are slightly thicker with a modest amount of body and bounce. It holds a blow-dry well and responds reasonably to volumizing products without becoming greasy as fast as 1A.

1C is the coarsest of the straight types. Strands are thick and resistant — they can be stubborn when it comes to holding curls from hot tools — but they also tend to have impressive natural shine and rarely look flat. Some 1C hair shows the faintest hint of a bend or wave toward the ends but never enough to qualify as wavy.

Care focus for Type 1: Keep the scalp balanced with a clarifying shampoo used once or twice a week to prevent sebum build-up. Avoid heavy butters or oils near the roots. Lightweight serums and volumizing mousses work better than thick creams.

Type 2: Wavy (2A, 2B, 2C)

Type 2 hair forms a gentle S-shape when it air-dries. It sits between straight and curly — not flat enough to be Type 1, not bouncy enough to be Type 3. Wavy hair is particularly susceptible to frizz because the bends in the strand create gaps where moisture can enter and disrupt the cuticle. Finding the balance between hydration and definition is the central challenge for Type 2.

2A waves are loose and relatively fine. The S-pattern is subtle and primarily visible from the mid-shaft to the ends. When hair is wet it looks almost straight, and the wave becomes apparent only as it dries. Products with strong hold can kill the movement entirely, so light mousses and texturizing sprays are ideal.

2B waves are more defined, with a clear S-shape that starts closer to the roots. There is noticeably more volume than 2A, and frizz is a more persistent concern, especially in humid climates. Medium-hold gels or creams applied on soaking-wet hair help encourage the wave pattern without turning crunchy.

2C is the border territory between wavy and curly. Waves are strong, start at the roots, and in some sections may form loose spirals. Strands tend to be thicker and more prone to frizz than 2A or 2B. The "squish to condish" technique — scrunching conditioner into soaking-wet hair — works particularly well for 2C to encourage definition and moisture absorption.

Care focus for Type 2: Diffuse-dry instead of rough-towel-drying to preserve the wave. Microfiber towels or an old cotton T-shirt reduce friction and frizz. Silicone-free products tend to perform better for wavy hair because they allow moisture balance without coating the strands.

Type 3: Curly (3A, 3B, 3C)

Type 3 hair forms clearly visible spiral or corkscrew curls when dry. The curl pattern is present from root to tip and bounces back when stretched. Because the curl bends the hair shaft repeatedly, sebum has difficulty reaching the ends, making Type 3 hair naturally drier than Types 1 and 2. Moisture retention and definition are the two pillars of a good Type 3 routine.

3A curls are large and loose — about the diameter of a piece of sidewalk chalk or a large marker. They have a glossy sheen when well-moisturized and respond beautifully to leave-in conditioners and curl-defining creams. The main enemy is frizz caused by humidity or touching hair while it dries.

3B curls are tighter and springier, roughly the diameter of a marker or a finger. The coils have more density than 3A, which means more volume but also more shrinkage (the difference between wet length and dry length). Creams and gels used together — the "cream first, gel to seal" method — are a popular approach for maximizing definition.

3C curls are very tight corkscrews, roughly the diameter of a pencil or a drinking straw. Shrinkage can be dramatic — 50% or more — so hair may look much shorter when dry than when wet. Deep conditioning treatments are especially important for 3C because the tighter curl makes it harder for conditioner to penetrate evenly.

Care focus for Type 3: Detangle only when wet and coated with conditioner, working from ends to roots. Deep condition weekly. Apply all styling products on soaking-wet hair and use a diffuser on low heat to encourage curl clumping. Satin pillowcases reduce nighttime friction and help preserve curl definition.

Type 4: Coily (4A, 4B, 4C)

Type 4 hair is the most tightly coiled category in the Andre Walker system. The curl pattern is very densely packed, shrinkage is the highest of any type (often 50–75%), and the hair shaft is the most fragile because it bends so sharply. Despite what many myths suggest, Type 4 hair is not inherently dry or unhealthy — it simply requires intentional moisture-sealing routines because sebum cannot travel the length of the tightly coiled strand on its own.

4A coils have a defined S-pattern when stretched, approximately the diameter of a crochet needle. With the right products and techniques, 4A hair can hold impressive curl definition. It benefits from the LOC (Liquid-Oil-Cream) or LCO method, which layers hydrating products to lock moisture in progressively.

4B hair has less visible curl definition and bends in tight Z-angles rather than round spirals. It has significant volume and density. Twist-outs and braid-outs are popular styling methods for 4B because they create a defined pattern that the hair does not naturally produce when air-dried loose.

4C is the tightest and most densely packed coil pattern. Individual strands are very fine but collectively produce enormous volume. There is little to no visible curl definition without deliberate styling. 4C hair is the most vulnerable to breakage and tangles, so gentle handling, regular moisturizing, and protective styles (braids, twists, updos) are central to healthy hair care.

Care focus for Type 4: Wash in sections to minimize tangling. Use a sulfate-free shampoo or co-wash to avoid stripping the natural oils that are already scarce. Seal moisture with heavier oils like castor or jojoba. Protective styles give the hair a break from daily manipulation, reducing breakage significantly.

How to Identify Your Hair Type

The cleanest way to identify your hair type is to wash your hair with a gentle, residue-free shampoo, skip conditioner, and let it air-dry without touching it. Once fully dry, observe the natural pattern that forms — that is your baseline curl type.

A few practical tips to make the assessment accurate:

• Use a clean starting point. Product build-up, heat damage, or chemical processing can mask or alter your natural pattern. Start with freshly clarified hair if possible.
• Look at multiple sections. Check the crown, temples, nape, and sides. Note the dominant pattern, but acknowledge any variation.
• Compare to reference images. Written descriptions are helpful, but side-by-side visual comparisons of each subtype make classification much easier. Our complete hair guide includes photo references for every category.
• Consider shrinkage. If your hair shrinks dramatically when dry, you are likely in the Type 4 range even if the texture looks fluffy rather than coily.

Once you have a working idea of your type, cross-reference it with your hair's porosity and density (covered below) to build a complete picture before shopping for products or scheduling treatments. You can also ask your stylist to assess your type in person — at our salon services, we offer texture consultations that take the guesswork out of it.

Caring for Each Hair Type

Hair type is an excellent starting point, but two additional factors shape which products and techniques will actually work for you: porosity and density.

Porosity refers to how readily your hair cuticle opens to absorb and release moisture. Low-porosity hair has tightly bound cuticles that resist moisture entry — it takes longer to get wet and longer to dry, and products tend to sit on top rather than penetrate. High-porosity hair (often caused by chemical processing or heat damage) absorbs moisture quickly but loses it just as fast. Normal or medium porosity sits in between and is generally the easiest to work with.

• Low porosity: Use heat (a warm towel or hooded dryer) to help open the cuticle during deep conditioning. Opt for lighter humectant-based products rather than heavy butters.
• High porosity: Focus on protein treatments to temporarily fill gaps in the cuticle, and seal with heavy oils or butters after moisturizing to slow moisture loss.

Density describes how many hairs grow per square inch of scalp — thin, medium, or thick. High-density hair can handle heavier products because there are more strands to distribute the product across. Low-density hair looks flat easily, so lightweight formulations and volumizing techniques are key.

When combined with your hair type, porosity and density give you a precise three-point profile. For example, a 3B/high-porosity/low-density profile calls for very different products than 3B/low-porosity/high-density — even though both are technically "3B." For more guidance on building a routine from scratch, visit our styling tips section, which includes technique guides for every hair profile.

Hair Types at a Glance

Type	Description	Top Care Tip
1A	Very fine, pin-straight, no volume	Clarify regularly; avoid heavy products near roots
1B	Medium-textured, straight with natural body	Volumizing mousse adds lift without weight
1C	Thick, coarse, straight and resistant	Lightweight serums tame frizz without greasiness
2A	Fine, loose S-wave from mid-shaft	Texturizing spray enhances wave without crunch
2B	Medium S-wave, frizz-prone	Apply gel to soaking-wet hair; diffuse on low
2C	Strong S-wave, borderline curly	Squish conditioner in; use a microfiber towel
3A	Large, loose spirals; shiny when moisturized	Leave-in conditioner + curl cream; no touching while drying
3B	Springy finger-width coils; high volume	Cream first, gel to seal; deep condition weekly
3C	Tight pencil-width corkscrews; high shrinkage	Deep condition every wash; detangle on wet hair only
4A	Defined S-coil, crochet-needle diameter	LOC method locks in moisture layer by layer
4B	Z-angle bends, minimal curl definition	Twist-outs create definition; seal with heavy oil
4C	Tightest coil, extreme shrinkage, most fragile	Protective styles reduce breakage; wash in sections

Frequently Asked Questions

Can your hair type change over time?

Yes, hair type can shift due to hormonal changes (puberty, pregnancy, menopause), significant health events, certain medications, or chemical and heat damage that permanently alters the structure of the strand. It is also common for children's hair to be straight or loosely wavy in early childhood and become curvier as they age. However, barring these factors, your genetic curl pattern remains essentially stable once fully established in adulthood. If you notice a sudden change in texture with no obvious cause, a dermatologist or trichologist can help rule out underlying issues.

Is it normal to have more than one hair type on the same head?

Completely normal. Most people have at least two different curl patterns across their scalp — often a looser pattern at the nape and a tighter one at the crown, or more defined curls on one side than the other. This is sometimes called having "mixed" or "multi-textured" hair. The practical approach is to identify the dominant type that covers most of your head, then address the minority texture as a zone rather than trying to force a single product routine across the whole head. The full hair guide has advice specifically for multi-textured routines.

Does hair type affect which products I should use?

Significantly, yes. Hair type influences how much moisture a strand needs, how well it holds a style, and how it responds to protein treatments. Straight hair (Type 1) generally benefits from lighter, water-based formulas because it distributes sebum efficiently and can look greasy quickly. Curly and coily hair (Types 3–4) needs heavier emollients and humectants because sebum cannot travel the length of the curved strand. That said, hair type is just one variable — porosity, density, and scalp condition are equally important. Combining all three gives you the clearest guide to product selection.

What is the difference between hair type and hair porosity?

Hair type describes the shape of the strand — straight, wavy, curly, or coily. Hair porosity describes the structural condition of the cuticle and how easily your hair absorbs and retains moisture. Two people can share the same hair type (say, 4A) but have very different porosities, meaning one absorbs conditioner instantly while the other needs heat assistance to get the same benefit. Understanding both gives you a far more accurate picture of what your hair needs than type alone. A simple float test — dropping a clean, product-free strand into a glass of water and observing whether it sinks quickly (high porosity), floats in the middle (medium), or stays on top (low) — gives a rough but useful porosity reading at home.

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